Nightwatchman Ralf's Blog

Nightwatchman Ralf's blog on Lucerne's history, myths, and legends. Discover the secrets of the medieval city.

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This blog is on the way to move to a new address

Old location: blog.nightwatchman.ch
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As of today there are posts on both addresses. However the move is planned to be finished by the end of this year. By then all posts will have moved to the new address.

17Dec25

When Odin became Türst

Türst is a pagan spirit from the Lucerne region. Originally, he was none other than Odin, also known as Wotan, the chief god of Norse mythology.

When Christianity spread, the old gods did not completely disappear from people's minds. Instead, the new religious leaders transformed them into ghosts and spirits, whose power was said to be strongest when people strayed from a godly life.

Türst, also called Thürst or Vuotis, is described as a demonic hunter who frightens both people and animals. A meeting with him can cause madness or even death. He is followed by a wild pack of three-legged dogs or pigs. Anyone who gets in his way or does not move aside quickly enough is turned into one of these creatures and is doomed to follow him forever.


The Wild Hunt
The Wild Hunt

Türst is often said to hunt in forests and riverbeds, especially in places like Entlebuch, Wiggertal, Schiltwald, Hundsrücken, Würzenbachtobel (Lucerne), Horw, and Hergiswil. In almost every part of the canton, there are paths associated with him. Some places even bear his name, such as Türstegg in Escholzmatt and Türstbach in Hergiswil.

Sometimes, Türst is accompanied by a witch-like figure called the Sträggele. He is also described as riding an eight-legged horse, just like Odin.

Related Posts:    

The Story of Türst    





The Witch Carried Through the Air by the Devil

Barbara Schatzmann, a midwife from St. Gallen, was suspected of being a witch in 1570 in Lucerne. She was arrested and confessed in Willisau that she had killed a boy by blowing on him. She also admitted in prison that her lover, the "Federmisch" (a name for the Devil), had taught her how to kill newborns by stabbing them in the head with a needle. According to different sources, she claimed to have done this to either 11 or 27 babies.

Even in prison, Barbara Schatzmann was tormented by the Devil, so guards had to watch her day and night. When they least expected it, the Devil struck. He came in the form of a black bird, grabbed her, tore off her skin, and carried her body and soul through the air. All that remained was her skin, blown up like a balloon.

At least, that is how the story is recorded in the Wickiana, a 16th-century collection of news reports. However, historical records from the Lucerne State Archive confirm that Barbara Schatzmann actually died in prison.

Wickiana (Zentralbibliothek Zürich, F 19, fol. 121v)

The Illustration in the Wickiana

The picture from the Wickiana (Zentralbibliothek Zürich, F 19, fol. 121v) shows the inside of the prison. On the left, we see her empty, blown-up skin with marks from the Devil’s attack, while two shocked guards look on.

In the top left corner, there is a winch, a tool used for stretching torture. Below it, we see heavy stones that were tied to prisoners' feet.

Through the tower window, the Devil can be seen flying away with his victim. Onlookers in the street point at him in shock.

Sources (All in German)

  • Senn Matthias, Die Wickiana, Johann Jakob Wicks Nachrichtensammlung aus dem 16. Jahrhundert. Seiten 180, 258.
  • Schacher Joseph, Das Hexenwesen im Kanton Luzern (1947), Seite 27.
  • e-periodica, Das Hexenwesen im 16. Jahrhundert.
  • Staatsarchiv des Kantons Luzern: https://staatsarchiv.lu.ch/schaufenster/quellen/Hexen


The Schumacher Plan – The First Precise City View of Lucerne

The Elevation of the City of Lucerne, better known as the Schumacher Plan, dates back to 1790 and was drawn by Franz Xaver Schumacher (1755–1808). In 1792, Jakob Joseph Clausner engraved the work in copper.

While the Martini Plan impresses with its beauty and vibrancy, the Schumacher Plan stands out for its remarkable accuracy. It depicts the city of Lucerne with exceptional detail. For instance, the execution site at Senti and the executioner’s residence are drawn to scale—details that are barely visible in the Martini Plan.

Schumacher Plan Luzern 1790
Schumacher Plan Luzern 1790, Franz Xaver Schumacher (1755-1808)

Wikimedia Commons 

Franz Xaver Schumacher came from a patrician family in Lucerne and studied in Bologna and Modena during his youth. Later, he served the French crown, held positions as a councilor, officer, bailiff, and was a passionate scientist.


A Masterpiece of Cartography

In the lower left corner of the plan, the following explanation is provided:

“This drawing of all the buildings in the city of Lucerne is depicted à vue d’oiseau, or from above, recorded geometrically from a fixed point, extracted from the plan, and rendered with the utmost accuracy in terms of both the height of the buildings and the width of the streets. Consequently, the plan had to be expanded, which is why the ground plan itself is included for better reference.”

The Schumacher Plan is therefore drawn in a bird’s-eye perspective (three-dimensional), which slightly expands the city view. In the upper left corner, a small supplementary plan presents an exact geometric top-down (two-dimensional) view for comparison.

The Significance of the Plan in its Time
The legend of the Schumacher Plan lists numerous significant buildings, towers, streets, and squares of Lucerne, including the town hall, the Musegg towers, churches, bridges, and guild houses. Its detailed representation provides a deep insight into the city’s structure in the late 18th century.

Notably, the explanation contains strong French influences—a reflection of the aristocratic elite’s admiration for French culture and Enlightenment ideas at the time. However, this period also saw dramatic upheavals: the French Revolution (1789–1799), the storming of the Tuileries Palace (1792), and the end of military cooperation between France and Switzerland. Soon after, the French Invasion of 1798 marked the beginning of the Helvetic Republic, bringing profound political changes.

The Schumacher Plan remains a unique historical document—a cartographic masterpiece that captures Lucerne with unprecedented precision.




The Zur Gilgen House and Tower


Zur Gilgen House and Tower, one of the most impressive buildings of Old Lucerne.

The Zur Gilgen House and the adjoining Baghard Tower were built in the early 16th century by Melchior Zur Gilgen and have remained in the possession of his descendants, who still reside there today.
In the mid-18th century, the house underwent Baroque renovations both inside and out, while the Baghard Tower, now known as the Zur Gilgen Tower, preserved its original architectural style.
Between 1830 and 1836, the Papal Nunciature was housed in the Zur Gilgen House. Later, it served as a guesthouse, with its most famous visitor being Victor Hugo.




Detail from the Martini plan (1597), Zur Gilgen House with Tower .

As we can see on the Martiniplan from 1597, the Zur Gilgen House had a Gothic style and stood directly by the water. After the "Brandgässli" fire in 1833, the Rathausquai was filled up with debris from the fire, and the Zur Gilgen House got a walled front garden.
To the south, the Schwanenplatz was also filled up. Since then, the house no longer borders directly on the lake.
Today, the shooting slits on the Zur Gilgen Tower, which were used for defense, can still be seen. 







Das Zur Gilgen Haus, Xaver Schwegler (1832-1902)
The Zur Gilgen Haus, Xaxer Schwegler (1832-1902)

The Lucerne artist Xaver Schwegler painted the artwork at the end of the 19th century. The area now known as Schwanenplatz was then called Schifflände and was expanded during the land reclamation for Schweizerhofquai. While the Hof Bridge and parts of the city wall were demolished, the Zur Gilgen House with its round tower, the Water Tower, and the tower with St. Peter’s Chapel—visible in historical depictions—have been preserved.





The Rössli Inn and the Old Water Rights

The former Rössli Inn was the first luxury hotel in Lucerne with its own fountain. In the early 16th century, it was the preferred accommodation for French ambassadors. The inn had around 20 beds, along with stables and fodder for horses and livestock—standard features of a hotel at that time. Its unique feature was its own water fountain.


The Rössli Inn in the Diebold Schilling Chronicle

In Folio 310v of the Diebold Schilling Chronicle, we see an illustration of the arrival of the French treasurer in Lucerne in 1509.


Diebold Schilling Chronicle The Younger,1513, Folio 310v


The Scene

The French treasurer brings pension funds to Lucerne to recruit mercenaries:
  • In the background, three Musegg Towers can be seen: Mändli, Luegisland, and Wachturm.
  • In the foreground, three stone buildings appear, all inns, as shown by their inn signs:
    • On the right: The "Schwert" (Sword)
    • In the center: The "Rössli" (Little Horse)
    • On the left: The "Raben" (Raven)
  • The weathervanes on the roof of the Rössli Inn display the coat of arms of its innkeeper, Peter Zumkäs.
  • Next to the inn sign, a rack for hanging bridles can be seen. Below it, a horse is entering the stables, located where the entrance to Coop City is today.
  • In the foreground, the French treasurer is seen riding in a blue cloak, surrounded by armed men.
  • To his right, a mule loaded with treasure chests belonging to the French crown is visible.
  • Another mule carrying more chests follows behind.


Around 1514, the city of Lucerne built a fountain in the Rössli Inn. The inn was granted the fountain under one condition: anyone lacking or needing water could collect it from the Rössli fountain.

Today, the original Rössli Inn no longer exists. Instead, the Coop City building stands in its place. However, the old water rights still apply:

  • The building still has its own fountain.
  • It must provide water to everyone to maintain this historical right.
  • This increases the property’s value, so the owner ensures that public access to the water is always maintained.

How the Water Right is Upheld Today

The Coop supermarket has leased the entire building. Today:

  • A decorative fountain in the self-service restaurant on the top floor always has running water.
  • In front of the building, a modern drinking fountain is available.

These measures preserve the historical water right, ensuring the tradition continues.

Mühleplatz Lucerne with Coop City, former Rössli Inn
Mühleplatz Lucerne with Coop city, former "Rössli Inn"

P.S. In the basement of the building, there is one of three supermarkets in the historical center.
And on the top floor, there is quite a good budget self-service restaurant. (Weekdays 09:00-19:00, Saturdays 09:00-17:00, Sunday closed).






How Diebold Schilling Saved an Innocent Man

In the Diebold Schilling chronicle on folio 174v he depicts an event that took place on April 29, 1495, at the Sentimatt execution site.

Diebold Schilling, Luzerner Chronik, 1513, Folio 174
Diebold Schilling, Luzerner Chronik, 1513, Folio 174

The Scene
At the center of the image, dressed in red, stands the judge, holding the executioner’s sword. He is the most important figure in the scene, symbolizing the authority of the judiciary. With a commanding hand gesture, he orders the executioner to stop.

The executioner, visibly confused, obediently sets down the iron-bound breaking wheel. He had just been about to begin the brutal process of "breaking on the wheel", starting with the convicted man’s right lower leg.

What Happened?
At that moment, Diebold Schilling arrives, pointing at the condemned man and declaring his innocence. Dressed in priestly robes, Schilling appears as a subordinate figure in the painting, humbly pleading for the life of the wrongly convicted man. This is fitting, as he was not only a chronicler but also a priest at St. Peter’s Chapel.

The convicted man, Jakob Kessler, was a vagrant from Breisgau, accused of committing murder in Lenzkirch, near the Titisee in the Black Forest. Under severe torture, he had confessed to the crime. However, he later gave his confessor a more credible account, insisting that he was innocent. Two city guards overheard this and informed Diebold Schilling, who courageously intervened.

Messengers were immediately dispatched to Lenzkirch to verify the accusation. But upon arrival, they discovered that no such murder had ever taken place. As a result, Jakob Kessler was freed. He later set out on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela—perhaps out of gratitude for his rescue or possibly as a penance pilgrimage, which was a common practice for released prisoners.

Other Executions
On the far right of the image, another man is being burned at the stake—also an outsider. His name was Martin Senn, a man from Savoy, accused of murdering a virgin and committing sodomy with a cow.

In the upper left corner, a triangular gallows structure is visible, with two hanged corpses—likely left there for weeks as a warning to others. It was common practice to let the bodies rot until they fell apart naturally.

In the background, we can see the Reuss River and, beyond the smoke, part of the Musegg Wall.

A Risky Act of Defiance
Though Diebold Schilling depicts himself in the image as humble and subordinate, he is, without question, the true hero of the story.
How daring must it have been to challenge a court ruling during a public execution, in front of a large crowd of spectators? The ruling elite considered themselves divinely appointed and infallible—to question their verdict was unthinkable.

What risk did Schilling take?
It is difficult to say, but his courage is undeniable. He must have enjoyed considerable respect and influence to get away with such defiance. Others who spoke against authority could face brutal punishments—having their right hand cut off and being strangled at a stake.

A Lesson in Justice
Through his chronicle, Diebold Schilling exposed the injustices of his time. Today, we know that justice was far from impartial:

40% of those executed were from the Lucerne countryside (the subject territories).
46.5% were other foreigners. (From the area outside of today's Canton of Lucerne).
Only 2% were citizens of Lucerne.




The Ghost in Furrengasse and the Toggelis

At the beginning of the 17th century, a ghost haunted Furrengasse in Lucerne. A tall, gaunt man with a large, crooked nose would climb the stairs to the town hall square and walk through Furrengasse. Suddenly, he would transform into a towering ghost, as tall as a house, dragging a long tail behind him. The ghost never harmed anyone and disappeared just as quickly as it had appeared.

At the same time, demons of the night—so-called Toggelis—would slip through open windows into the chambers of sleeping people. A Toggeli would sit on the chest of a sleeper, pressing down so heavily that they struggled to breathe.

But a Toggeli could also creep into a woman's dreams, exploring the depths of her mind. It would then deceive the helpless sleeper, making her believe it was the man of her dreams. The dreaming woman would imagine herself in the arms of her beloved, spending a passionate night together. By morning, the Toggeli would vanish, leaving the woman unsure whether she had merely dreamed or if it had truly happened.

The Nightmare- Johann Heinrich Füssli (aka Henry Fuseli, 1741 Zurich – 1825 London)
The Nightmare- Johann Heinrich Füssli (aka Henry Fuseli, 1741 Zurich – 1825 London)
















The maids whispered this story in hushed voices, but no one dared to write it down.
Night Watchman Ralf says: The Toggeli corresponds to the Latin "Incubus." Various sources confirm that this is a common translation.

Related Tours: Nightwatchman Ralf Walk (Public or Private)




I fell in love with the Martini Plan

The city of Lucerne has several very nice medieval maps. Among them is the Martiniplan of Lucerne, dated 1597. It is one of the best copper graving art work of that time.
Martini did not follow geometrical correctness. He changed the things in order to nicely present them. He has hidden some things and blowed up other things. The houses look a bit smaller, the roads and squares a bit bigger. On top of that he put live on the map by adding people to it. You can see Ladies with hats walking down the street and man with swords crossing the square.



Have a look at the Martiniplan on Wiki:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Martiniplan_Luzern.jpg


Most probably you will be amazed about the precision of this masterpiece, at least I am.
Have a virtual city sightseeing tour of Lucerne. See the Musegg Walls, the Kapellplatz, the town hall and the market unter der egg, or watch inside the mills at the Spreuerbrücke.













P.S. Notes on the Martiniplan

 1. Gütsch
 2. Gütsch Tower
 3. Senti Gate, St. Antonius Church
 4. Pfründer Hospital and lower Languish House
 5. Municipal Wood House
 6. Municipal Hospital St. Jakob
 7. Crossbow and Shooting Club House und Kuzweil Square
 8. St. Anna Hospital
 9. Riflemen Club
10. Basler Gate, Custom House, Oat Tower
11. Municipal Smith House
12. Jew Tower, Grain Store
13. Arsenal
14. Pfistergasse
15. Bruchgasse
16. Bruchtor, Gasse um den Burggraben (heute Hirschengraben)
17. Kesselturm
18. Ketzerturm (
19. Obergrundstrasse
20. Krienser Gate
21. Inn zum Schlüssel
22. Bartüssergasse und Platz
23. Barefooter (Franciscan) Abbey and Church
24. Schmiedgasse
25. Burger Gate, Krienbach (Creek) und Brüggli
26. Münzgasse (Mint Lane)
27. Heiliggeistspital und Kirche (Holy Ghose Hospital and Church)
28. Jesuitenkirche und Kollegium (Jesuit Church and Convent)
29. Jesuitengymnasium, Gasse und Platz (Jesuit Gymnasium)
30. Kropfgasse und Tor
31. Frauenturm (Women Tower)
32. Freienhof
33. Kapellbrücke mit Wasserturm (Chapel Bridge with Water Tower)
34. St. Peterskapelle (St. Peters Chapel)
35. Zurgilgenhaus und Turm (Zurgilgen House and Tower)
36. Wyghaus des Klosters Engelberg
37. Herberge der römischen Kaiser und der österreichischen Fürsten
38. Rat- und Richthaus, darunter Korn-, Kaufhaus und Ankenmarkt
39. Eggstiege
40. Haus der Gesellschaft zu Pfistern, darunter Obstmarkt
41. Haus der Gesellschaft zu Schneidern
42. Markt an der Fischerstatt
43. Haus der Gesellschaft zu Schützen und zu Fritschi, darunter Metzg
44. Reussbrücke und Reussgässli
45. Kramgasse mit der Apotheke (Kramgasse and Pharmacy / Pillory)
46. Fisch- oder Weinmarkt
47. Kornmarkt
48. Furrengasse
49. Kapellgasse und Platz
50. Sust und Kornhaus
51. Hoftor, Aufgang zur Hofbrücke
52. Vordere Ledergasse und Ledertor (heute Gerbergasse)
53. Hintere Ledergasse und Ledertor
54. Rosengartenturm
55. Gasse unter den Bäumen, Schwesternhaus (heute Sternenplatz)
56. Weggistor, lnneres Weggistor oder schwarzer Turm
57. Grabengasse
58. Graggentor
59. Neuer Platz
60. Alter Rossmarkt
61. Mühlenplatz
62. Mühlentor
63. Harnischer- und Poliererhaus
64. Spreuerbrücke mit Mühlen und Schleife
65. Roter Turm mit Lindentor (heute Nölliturm)
66. Männliturm
67. Luegisland
68. Wacht- oder Heuturm
69. Zeitturm
70, Schirmertor
71. Pulverturm
72. Allenwindenturm
73. Dächliturm
74. Ausseres Weggistor
75. Weggisgasse (heute Hertensteinstrasse)
76. Löwengraben
77. Cysathaus und Kapelle
78. Mariahilfgasse
79. Seegraben
80. Hoftor in der Vorstadt
81. Stift St. Leodegar und Mauritius
82. Propstei
83. Leutpriesterei
84. Hofschule
85. St. Leonhardskapelle und Beinhaus
86. Tor zum Kirchhof
87. Predigerstatt, Platz unter den Linden
88. Hofgasse in der Vorstadt
89. St. Antonius Kapelle
90. Heiliges Kreuz
91. Kapuzinerkloster
92. Dietschiberg
93. Road to Einsiedeln
94. Jesuiter-Baumgarten
95. Municipal Boat House

Another old map of Lucerne is the Schumacher Plan of 1790.